I have a theory Japan drier and Majic Catalyst Hardener are basically the same thing. I mean they're not chemically the same, but the are causing identical cross linking reaction in the paint. Which is just part of what real hardener does. So personally I would just use little more Japan drier and skip the Majic hardener.....In any case I've used real automotive Acrylic Enamel Hardener with Majic tractor paint mixed at 8:1 and reduced it with naphtha. It worked just fine.....Naphtha and real automotive Acrylic Enamel Hardener are IMO going to give a better more durable faster dying finish and should also be same price or cheaper than using Majic reducer and Majic hardener.
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